Designer Francisco Costa went big(ger) but stayed his signature sleek self.
Always a minimalist when it comes to embellishment, Calvin Klein's Francisco Costa went maximal when it came to silhouette this season: boxy coats and jackets paired with thick, military-esque belts and oversized clutches and anchored by chunky boots and pumps, which peeked out from beneath billowy cropped pleated pants.
But not surprisingly, oversized here was elegant, not clunky — chic, not cartoonish.
Edge also emerged in the form of vinyl — stitched into pencil skirts and plaid shifts and sculpted into boots. Costa also trotted out his (very subtle) version of the ubiquitous cutout: open weave wool felt dresses, skirts, shirts and jackets.
A summer shape — the bandeau top — was re-envisioned in a fall color and fabric: forest green wool felt.
Modeling the peek-a-boo trend was Olivia Wilde, in a blue, web-like dress and pert ponytail. Her seatmate, recent Klein aficionado Jessica Chastain, kept things more classic in a sleeveless belted rust shift.